When done, cut the excess film away and discard. Pull the film 1" towards the left edge. You want to shift the film towards the edge you just cut. This ensures that you have enough tint to cover every edge of the window, including the part covered by the seal.
Cut the right edge, then slide the tint halfway back towards the center. Pull the film down roughly one inch, so the bottom edge is lower than the window. This is the tint that will eventually go into the door, allowing you a better light seal. Slide it down and then use the squeegee to flatten it again. You'll be doing the same thing you just did with the right and left side on the top and bottom edges.
Lower the window a half inch, then use the top of the window to cut the film to shape. Once the window is lowered, you can use this top edge of the window as your guide. Use the precision knife to cut right to the top of the window. When done, pull the tint back towards the center. Clean up any of the corners that have excess film.
When cutting away, the corners may have bits and pieces of extra film in the corners. Use your knife to clean it all up. Realign your film so that it fits the window perfectly, with some excess on every edge. You may need to reapply water to make it stick. If so, remove the cut tint, spray some more soapy water, and reapply the film to the window. Working from the top down, use a heat gun and a hard card to push the bubbles to the bottom.
Get out all the air and water by working from the top downward. Smooth the entire film out on the outside of the window. As you push to the bottom, you'll see zig-zagging from the "fingers" of air still stuck in the film. This is a good sign. Keep pushing downward, then run the heat gun along the bottom of the window to make sure it is all dried out. You'll have to prep the inside window a bit more, so this is a good place to ensure that the tint stays dust free.
Part 3. Prep the inside of the window with soapy water and a squeegee. You're going to go through a lot of soapy water in this process. You can use a hard edge to get in between the seal and the window for a better clean. When done, spray the whole window with soapy water. Peel off the top half of the release liner from the tinting film.
Window tint works just like a sticker. There is a removable layer that adheres to the tint and keeps the adhesive solid. You should, however, only peel off only the top half for now-- it makes it easier to work with. Spray off the now-exposed section with fresh water. You are now ready to adhere the tint to the window.
Line up and adhere the top of the tint to the window. The water makes the tint easy to slide around, so you can get the edge of the window perfectly lined up with the top edge of the tint. Your window should still be slightly down. Slightly fold the tint to work it underneath the seal.
Once the top edge is on the window, sneak the two sides into the seals to the right and left, using your fingers to get them roughly flush. With one hand, pull back the seal around the window, then use the other hand to push the film under the seal and onto the window.
Spray down the window again, then use your hard edge to push the water out the edges. Using your squeegee or hard-edge, slowly work the water out by pushing the water to the sides. Push the water out the top and sides, but don't push towards the bottom, where you have the rest of you liner waiting to be adhered. You should keep a hand on the tint at all times to keep it from moving as you squeegee the water out. Roll the window up, then spray the bottom half of the window with soapy water.
Don't skimp on the soapy water -- it is essential to prevent the tint from sticking. Pull off the remaining release layer, then spray the exposed tint with water.
Make sure both the window and the tint are wet. Use your fingers and hard edge to tuck the bottom of the tint into the bottom seal. Spray off the tint with soapy water again. This includes light filtering; the film can be customized to filter out UV rays, reduce infrared penetration, reduce the glare of visible light, or a combination thereof.
While it is technically possible to install it yourself, unless you have professional experience, it is better to hand this job off to a specialist. They will begin by cleaning your windows, and then cutting the film from a sheet of stock. Some specialists will cut the film by hand, but others used automated systems. One critical step to take during this stage of the process is to round out the corners. By rounding out the sharp edges on the corners, the installer ensures the film will not get caught or peel when the window rolls up and down.
First, the tinting professional sprays soapy water onto the window alongside the film itself. After the material is in place, they may also use the heat gun again to help dry the soapy water and further contour the film to the curve of the window. Lastly, the installers will take a critical eye to their work. They examine the window from both the outside and the inside to identify and smooth out any imperfections.
Depending on the film type and the weather conditions, it can take up to three weeks for the adhesive to completely cure. During this time, you may notice a hazy appearance or tiny water bubbles. Enjoy your drive home, free from harmful ultraviolet UV rays, annoying glare and uncomfortable heat! Madico dealers are masterful installers who treat automotive window tinting film application as a true craft. Window tinting has many benefits. It protects you and your home or car from the damaging effects of the sun, both to your vehicle and health.
It can also provide security and privacy, while letting in light and letting you see out. It can even make your home more energy efficient and keep your car cool on a hot day. With all these benefits, have you ever wondered how exactly car window tints work?
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